OLD EPSOMIAN LODGE VISIT

TO D-DAY LANDINGS

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Our Freemasons lodge normally sojourns for a long weekend each year in Ypres or the Somme, but this year, we decided to broaden our military and masonic horizons by visiting either Verdun or the Normandy landings and D-day won! Phillip, Jonathan, Jerry, Gavin and Phillip’s guest and brother, Jason, comprised the party on this tour. Click  HERE  for previous tour reports to the Western Front.

 

 

 

PREAMBLE

 

Historical Perspective Prior to D-Day

 

In order to gain a proper historical appreciation of the D-Day landings, it is important to put events in context, which I very briefly attempt as follows:-

 

·         The Germans had lost out in Africa to Montgomery

 

 

 

 

 

In 1941, Churchill told Mountbatten: “You are to prepare for an invasion of Europe for unless we can land in Europe and fight Hitler, we can never win this war. You must devise and design the appliances, landing craft and technique to effect us to effect a landing - you’ve got to turn the whole of the south east of England into the springboard for the attack!” (Thames Television Interview).

 

 

Why Visit D-Day Landing Sites in Normandy?

 

The D-Day landings (“Operation Overlord”) represent the largest seaborne assault the world has ever seen. It involved some of the most audacious and colourful military commanders in the history of warfare, many of whom were already legend at the time including Montgomery, ”Bomber” Harris, Trafford Lee-Mallory, Patton and Bradley for the Allies and the Germans included Rommel, Sepp Dietrich, Kurt “Panzer” Meyer and tank Ace, Michael Wittman.

 

The scale of the landings was vast: The Allies landed around 156,000 troops in Normandy with the American forces landing 73,000: 23,250 on Utah Beach, 34,250 on Omaha Beach, and 15,500 airborne troops. In the British and Canadian sectors, 83,115 troops were landed (61,715 of them British): 24,970 on Gold Beach, 21,400 on Juno Beach, 28,845 on Sword Beach, and 7900 airborne troops.

 

These landings were made possible through the naval operation entitled “Neptune” and involved 1,213 naval combat ships, 4,126 landing ships and landing craft, 736 ancillary craft and 864 merchant vessels all operated by some 195,700 military and civilian personnel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travel Arrangements

 

Some of us arrived in Normandy via the Portsmouth to Ouistreham Ferry (left Portsmouth at 11 pm arrived at 7am) and others left Folkestone on the Chunnel at 7pm and arrived in Normandy at 1:pm. The drive was @ 400 miles. Our advice is to take the car over with the ferry – it’s a much easier journey and the port is in the midst of all the beaches and hotels.

 

We stayed at the Hotel De La Marine in Arromanches (+33 2 31 22 34 19) which was a good ** hotel with a nice restaurant, friendly staff, an accommodating bar, a great coastal view and ensuite rooms.

 

 

 

 

 

MULBERRYS

 

 

The view from our hotel in Arromanches included one of the Mulberries, being a temporary concrete harbour constructed at Gold Beach; when fully operational, it had the capacity to move 7,000 tons of vehicles and supplies per day from ship-to-shore. These unloading facilities were essential as previous experience at Dieppe in 1942 showed that the Allies could not successfully attack and secure a port from the sea and therefore had to bring all their necessary facilities to unload with them.

 

Each Mulberry harbour consisted of roughly 6 miles of flexible steel roadways that floated on steel or concrete pontoons. The roadways terminated at great pier heads that were jacked up and down on legs which rested on the seafloor.

 

These structures were to be sheltered from the sea by lines of massive sunken caissons and lines of scuttled ships. It was estimated that construction of the caissons alone required 252,000 cubic metres of concrete, 31,000 tons of steel, and 1.4 million metres of steel shuttering.

 

Today, you can quite clearly see the remains of the Arromanches Mulberry structures. You can only guess at the enormity of the original structures when complete.

 

 

 

ST MERE EGLISE

 

 

This village was situated behind Utah Beach and was the location for landings by the American 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions who were given the task of securing the Western Normandy flank.

 

The American paratroopers found themselves scattered over a wide area and many drowned in nearby marshes. Nevertheless St Mere Eglise was captured at 4:00 am and then successfully repulsed several counter attacks suffering heavy casualties in the process.

 

St Mere Eglise todayDuring the parachute landings, Private Steele famously landed on top of the town centre church and became trapped for several hours after snagging his parachute on the roof. He was shot at and injured in his foot. He played dead but was later taken prisoner. His effigy hangs there still.

 

The American Airborne Museum now stands on the site of a house destroyed by fire during the fighting. it is composed of two buildings. The first one is parachute shape and shelters a glider, many weapons and equipment. One can view a film recalling the fighting from 5 to 6 June 1944.

 

The second building presents a transport aircraft Douglas C47, uniforms and historic objects. Outside is an M4 Sherman tank (pictured)and other vehicles.

 

 

 

 
 
 
UTAH BEACH

 

Then we sojourned to Utah Beach. The Utah landing area was approximately three miles long and was located northwest of the Carentan estuary on sandy, duned beaches. Compared to German fortifications at Omaha Beach, the defences at Utah, based on fixed infantry positions, were sparse.

 

Defences along the causeways consisted mostly of strong points equipped with automatic weapons. Coastal and field artillery batteries were located some two miles inland.

 

The Americans accidentally landed slightly off course; the assistant division commander, Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr, quickly realized the error. Uttering his famous remark, "We'll start the war from here!" he ordered the division to advance. Three hours later, exits 1, 2, and 3 had been secured, and by Midday, contact had been made with paratroopers from the 101st Airborne Division around the town of Pouppeville.

 

By the end of the day, the 4th Division had pushed inland about four miles, and its westernmost units were within a mile of the 82nd Airborne's perimeter near Sainte Mere-Eglise.

 

 

 

PEGASUS BRIDGE

 

This bridge is towards the right flank of the British and Canadian sector near the village of Benouville. It spans the Caen Canal and the other nearby bridge goes over the Orne. It was crucial for the Allies to ensure a rapid mechanised advance on D-Day and deny the Germans an opportunity to use both bridges for a counterattack. To lose them would result in all troops East of the Canal being trapped.

 

In “one of the finest flying feats of the war”, three Horsa gliders, carrying men of the Ox & Bucks Light Infantry commanded by Major John Howard (pictured right), accurately crash-landed in the marshy terrain immediately adjacent to the Caen Canal bridge, known ever since as “Pegasus” Bridge after the winged horse emblem worn by these liberators.

 

Immediately after landings, Howards troops began to storm the bridge. A German soldier (Sergeant Hickman) recalled that witnessing a “Para platoon in full cry had frightened the daylights” out of him. Lt Brotheridge and his Bren gunner, Private Grey, had made it across the bridge to the other side, but just after the Lieutenant threw a grenade at the German MG post on the far shore, he caught a burst of machine gun fire and was killed. Corporal Parr and another section made it across the bridge, and began to shout the codeword for success, "Ham and Jam!”

 

Within five minutes, and for the loss of just two killed, the Paras had secured the bridge and liberated the first French building – the Café Gondrée, pictured left. Subsequently, the Paras held the bridge until relieved later that day by forces that had landed on “Sword” beach, while other units of the 6th Airborne also secured several bridges over the Orne, the Ranville–Hérouvillette area east of the river, and the Merville Battery.

 

Later in the morning, the Germans counterattacked with unsupported tanks but were successfully repulsed, predominantly by Sergeant Thornton who waited until the tanks were right on him before he fired the first of only two PIAT rounds that he had left.

 

The British Airborne assault was an outstanding success, resulting in the capture of both objectives and the liberation of the first building in Europe, the Gondrée Café. The Gondrée Café was run by Mr Gondrée at the time of the landings and his daughter Arlette, a small child at the time, was present. Immediately upon being liberated, it is believed that Mr Gondrée unearthed a substantial quantity of champagne that he had buried in his back garden to share with the troops. The café is still there doing brisk business and is now managed by Mme Arlette Gondrée.

 

 

 

 

MERVILLE BATTERY

 

This was another important Atlantic Wall defence hastily built on Rommell’s orders in 1944 and is situated just off the coast, slightly to the East of Ouistreham.

 

 

Merville comprised four casemates with reinforced concrete six feet thick. At the time, these imposing structures were believed to house substantial 150 mm guns. The local defences were formidable and included belts of barbed wire fifteen feet thick, minefields one hundred yards wide and anti tank ditches. The site was manned by a garrison of 160 men responsible for 15 to 20 weapons pits, each containing 4 to 5 machine guns and possibly three 20mm anti-aircraft guns.

 

The silencing of the Merville battery fell to Lieutenant Colonel Terence Otway's 9th Battalion. They trained for six weeks before the show on exact replicas of the site constructed near Hungerford to make sure every man fully understood his role and were familiar with what would prove to be extremely dangerous surroundings. On the night however, the 9th had a bad drop at 0250 hrs owing to heavy flak and the attack began with only 150 lightly armed men of the original 635 man force.

 

Otway considered his position as follows:- "By 02.50 hours the battalion had grown to one hundred and fifty strong with twenty lengths of Bangalore torpedo. Each company was approximately thirty strong. Enough signals to carry on - no three-inch mortars - one machine-gun - one half one sniping party - no six-pounders - no jeeps or trailers or glider stores - no sappers - no field ambulance, but six unit medical orderlies - no mine detectors - one company commander missing. The commanding officer decided to advance immediately."

 

The daring attack captured the battery within 30 minutes at a cost of half the attacking force. The defending Germans paid a terrible price: Only 6 men of the 160 man garrison were uninjured in what undoubtedly involved ferocious hand-to-hand fighting, phosphorous grenades and shooting at whatever moved in the dark.  Afterwards, the remnants of Otway’s force went on to their next objective being a fortified châteaux on high ground near Le Plein. For his brave exploits that day, Otway was awarded the DSO. Several days later he was injured in a bomb blast that rendered him unfit for further combat. Who knows what he could have achieved later in the war when circumstances were more likely to be in his favour?

 

Casemate no.1 now houses an excellent museum.

 

 

 

HILLMAN BATTERY (POINT 61)

 

This battery is situated in Colleville Montgomery and stood in the way of Allied forces landing on Juno Beach and their objective being to reach Caen on the day of the landings. Hillman (known as “Point 61” to the Germans) comprised an underground fortress including minefields, bunkers, guns and cupolas and is one of a twin codenamed “Morris” which is situated within the town.

 

 

On the day of the landings, the 1st battalion Suffolk Regiment were sent to capture “Morris” and then advance out of town to take “Hillman”. Morris, which sadly we didn’t have time to inspect, consisted of four 105 mm battery guns housed in concrete emplacements, barbed wire, machine guns and mines. Morris was taken by Midday with 67 enemy soldiers surrendering.

 

Hillman was commanded by Oberst (Colonel) Kruger and was the Regimental headquarters of 736 Regiment. It had a compliment of 150 crack troops and wouldn’t be taken easily. This underground, fully ventilated complex included 7 machine guns, two light infantry guns, an anti tank gun, three steel cupolas, trench systems, 12 bunkers, mine fields four rows deep and barbed wire. The site occupied an area of 600 yards by 400 yards. A cupola is pictured below left and the machine gunners’view looking out is pictured right.

 

 

 

 

Hillman had escaped from the pre-invasion aerial and naval bombardment and so was well able to defend itself against initial advances by the Suffolks. The attacks on Hillman lasted all day and only started to draw to a close when tanks earmarked for the dash to Caen were diverted to attack Hillman; infantry attacks alone proved suicidal.

 

machine gunners view through Hillman Cupola todayBy Midnight, the Germans realised that protracted fire fighting was futile. Oberst Krug rang his General in Caen for orders and is reported to have said “The enemy are on top of my bunker. I have no means of resisting them and no means of communicating with them. What shall I do?” to which his General Richter replied, “I can give you no more orders. You must make your own decisions now. Goodbye”  Krug surrendered the next morning with 2 officers and 70 other ranks, knowing he had held up the Allied advance to Caen. He is pictured right after he surrendered.

 

When we visited, we were fortunate to be offered a guided tour of those bunkers now in the hands of “Les Amis Du Suffolk Regiment” who are now restoring them to their former glory. They have recommisioned the ventilation plant, lit some rooms, cleaned up some walls and floors and preserved for posterity what must surely be the most heavily fortified bunkers near the Normandy coastline. They are to be congratulated for their great work.

 

During our guided tour, we visited several bunkers and tunnels, a restored machine gun cupola (which could withstand armour piercing tank shells), machine gun loopholes and torbruk emplacements. We were even shown how the ventilation openings were made grenade proof so that when grenades were thrown down them, they rattled down the pipe and rolled out of an exit vent some two seconds later to land unexpectedly at the throwers feet.

 

 

 

LONGUES - SUR MER BATTERY

 

This battery is located due North of Bayeux and is 4 miles to the west of Arromanches. It is situated on top of 65 metre cliffs overlooking “Gold” landing beaches The site featured in the film “The Longest Day”.

 

This battery was one of the more substantial defences out of 1,600 others forming the “Atlantic Wall” along the Normandy coastline and was constructed in 1943, although were still not quite finished by D-Day. It forms three parts: The type M272 Casemates (concrete structures 15M long and 10m wide housing large 152 mm guns with 120 degrees arc of fire), a huge control bunker and various defensive works.

 

The guns, situated in casemates some 300 yards inland, weighed 20 tons and had a firing rate of 6 shells a minute each and a range of 13 miles. For camouflage, each casemate was covered in asphalt and had grass growing in pits dotted around the upper surfaces of the structure. The structures were then netted and made to blend with their surroundings.

 

 

The control bunker was situated at the head of the cliff and has a good view of the sea. This bunker is two stories with the upper floor being used for observation purposes and the lower level housing maps, range finding equipment and the radio room. This structure looks monstrous because it was built to withstand the heaviest bombardments from 1000 KG bombs which could leave 7M deep craters.

 

The  Battery was commanded by Oberleutnant zur Zee. It was still not completed by D-Day and it is unlikely that the gunners had finished their training and perfected the skills necessary for accuracy, given their lack of hits on D-Day.

 

The Battery was repeatedly bombed in the run up to D-Day. The casemates and observation tower survived but on 28th May, the communication lines were totally cut. Life as a gunner at the Longues Battery in those weeks must have been very fearful.

 

At 0537 on D-Day, Longues became the target of the French Cruiser Leygues and the US battleship Arkansas operating in Omaha. The Battery replied without hit. Then the guns registered on ships in Gold with greater accuracy and engaged in a duel with the cruiser Ajax at a distance of 11,000 Metres. Finally, Ajax assisted by Argonaut knocked out three of four casements. Although it returned fire later that day, it was forced to surrender on the 7th June with 184 troops to the 2nd Btn Devonshire Regiment after having fired a total of 170 shells.

 

Today the battery is still in an excellent state of preservation and is probably the only battery in the region to have kept most of its guns and is therefore a great site to visit.

 

 

 

OMAHA BEACH

 

"Omaha" was the code name for the second beach from the right of the five landing areas of the Normandy Invasion. Today it has an eerie quietness, sombre plaques, and hauntingly distressed cliff tops that fringe the length of the beach and coast road.

 

 

It was the largest of the assault areas, stretching over 6 miles (10 kilometres) between Port-en-Bessin on the east and the mouth of the Vire River on the west. The western third of the beach was backed by a 10-foot- (3-metre-) high seawall, and the whole beach was overlooked by cliffs 100 feet high. There were five exits from the sand and shingle beach. The best exit was a paved road in a ravine leading to the village of Vierville-sur-Mer, two more were only dirt paths and two others were dirt roads leading to the villages of Colleville-sur-Mer and Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer.

 

When we arrived, we went straight for the Dog Green sector, not knowing that it was the setting for the worst casualties along the entire Omaha sector. When one looks from the monument along the beach, one can appreciate why landing there was so difficult and then surviving was so improbable.

 

American troops landing on D-Day.

 

At the time of the landings, British Intelligence neglected to inform the Americans that 352nd German Infantry Division recently arrived to bolster existing defenders. Furthermore, on D-Day itself, recent storms had raised tide levels so that the width of the beach was reduced to a mere 30 feet – hardly enough to manoeuvre tanks and transport.

 

Conditions were so difficult that Col George Thompson, 16th Infantry Regiment, shouted to his men on disembarkation: “They’re two kinds a people are staying on this beach: The dead and those about to die – lets get the hell outta here!!”

 

From the beginning everything went wrong at Omaha. Special "DD" tanks (amphibious Sherman tanks fitted with flotation screens) that were supposed to support the 116th Regiment were launched too far out to sea and most sank in the choppy waters of the Channel - only 2 of the 29 launched made it to the beach. With the exception of Company A, strong winds and currents ensured no unit of the 116th landed where it was planned.

 

Whilst struggling to land, it is worth considering what defences were adopted by the Germans to frustrate the American landing forces:

 

8 concrete bunkers with artillery

35 pillboxes ensuring interlocking fire every 100 yards of beach.

4 artillery batteries

6 mortar pits

18 anti-tank guns, one per 400 yards of beach

35-40 rocket launcher sites

85 machine gun sites, one for every 80 yards of beach

6 tank turrets

 

Throughout the landing, German gunners poured deadly fire into the ranks of the invading Americans. Bodies lay on the beach and floated in the water. Men sought refuge behind beach obstacles, pondering the deadly sprint across the beach to the seawall, which offered some safety at the base of the cliff. Destroyed craft and vehicles littered the beach and at 0830 hours all landing ceased at Omaha. The troops on the beach were left on their own and realized that the conventional exits were not the best way off the beaches.

 

Meanwhile, navy destroyers steamed in and scraping their bottoms in the shallow water, blasted the German fortifications at point-blank range. By 1200 hours German fire was noticeably decreased as the defensive positions were taken from the rear. Then one by one the exits were opened.  The Americans suffered 2,400 casualties at Omaha on June 6, but by the end of the day they had landed 34,000 troops. The German 352nd Division lost 20 percent of its strength, with 1,200 casualties,

 

There is a museum at Omaha, but it is very disappointing given that the world’s major Superpower landed close by and made history on D-Day. Jonathan thought the entrance through the museum should be through the front of a landing craft, exiting to sand, spray, unexpected flashes and the sound of gunfire – now that really would be worthwhile!

 

 

LA CAMBE

 

La Cambe cemetery, pictured below, is situated near the N13 road and Omaha Beach and is the largest German military cemetery in Normandy. 21 400 German soldiers are buried there. In the middle stands a six metre hill, surmounted by a granite cross which represents the common grave of 296 combatants.

 

This cemetery appears slightly more spacious and brighter than the German cemetery with which we are familiar at Langemark on the Western Front in Belgium. Like Langemark, there are ornate megalithic shaped gravestones, black plaques lying face up in place of headstones and the virtual absence of flowers. Whilst the site is perfectly maintained, its blackness gives it a sorrowful ambience and is a powerful reminder of the futility of the Normandy campaign for German troops after D-Day.

 

The real reason for the visit was to reflect on the achievements of Hauptmann Michael Wittmann of the Waffen SS. He claims the title of the world’s most successful tank ace: In an astonishing career, he destroyed 138 enemy tanks, 132 anti-tank guns and other heavy artillery pieces, not to say hundreds of other light vehicles and shot up countless infantry. He died just after noon on 8 August when his tank, (a Tiger numbered 007), caught fire and the turret blew off – in English parlance – “he got brewed up”.

 

His most famous exploits occurred on June 13th 1944, although by then he already had legendary status in Berlin and was one of only 150 to wear the coveted Knights Cross with oak leaves and swords. That day Brigadier “Looney” Hinde had pushed his armoured division a little too hastily into Villers-Bocage and then parked, much to Wittmann’s surprise who was occupying the commanding terrain of point 213 nearby. Not wanting to miss an opportunity, Wittmann raced into the village with his Tiger without waiting for reinforcements and within the space of five minutes devastated the leading element of 22nd Armoured Brigade.

 

On entering the town with machine guns blazing to ensure the dismounted troops kept their heads down, Wittmann turned to a dozen unmanned Cromwells parked close together and with gunner and loader working like demons, all twelve of the enemy tanks were quickly destroyed. The next victims for Wittmann's hot and smoking 88mm KwK were four very dangerous Fireflies, each of which were despatched with clinical precision.

 

Standing behind the burning Fireflies were fourteen Bren and Lloyd gun carriers towing 6pdr field guns, the first two of which were obliterated with a single AP shot from the 88mm main gun. On noting the ease by which these vehicles were destroyed, the remaning dozen were taken out with heavy fire from the pair of MG34s operated by Woll and bow gunner SS-Sturmmann Günther Jonas.

Villers-Bocage

As the Tiger now moved cautiously towards the centre of town, the next encounter was with a Sherman of the 5th Royal Artillery, which was quickly dispatched. Wittmann then came upon a pair of Cromwells belonging to the RHQ of the CLY, both of which had broken away from the main group; both of these were destroyed by the 88mm gun. A third Cromwell, that commanded by Captain Dyas, waited for the Tiger to pass before making its way out from the side-street in which it was hiding and started to follow the lone Tiger up the road.

 

Dyas managed to get a shot off against the massive German vehicle, but instead of claiming his prize, he saw the shell bounce harmlessly off the Tiger's thick 100 mm armour. Dyas was not to get a second chance; the Tiger's massive gun turned itself on the now helpless and exposed British vehicle and an accurate shot from Woll succeeded in blowing Dyas clean out of his cupola, leaving him dazed, but unhurt. His gunner and driver were not so fortunate.

 

In all, Wittmann's Tiger had destroyed twenty-one enemy tanks and an unspecified number of half-tracks, troop carriers and Bren gun carriers; in what what one of the most astonishing feats of arms during the war, he had single-handedly prevented the British advance through Villers Bocage. For his achievements, he earned not only congratulations from his commander, “Sepp” Dietrich, but was awarded “Swords” to his Knights cross, personally by Hitler.

 

There is controversy over how Wittmann died. He was caught in the slaughter at Falaise and was probably hit by an RAF bomb on 8th August 1944. Many years after the war, his grave was found whilst undertaking roadway improvements and he is now buried in La Cambe to the far right hand side of the cemetery on row 3, block 47.

 

 

 

 

AN OLD EPSOMIAN HONOURED

 

Some research before the trip informed us that Lt. William MA Lewis (256530), an Old Epsomian had died on D-Day and was buried in Bayeux Cemetery (pictured below) in row K10, grave No. 14. His records show that he was aged 22 and was in the 4th/7th Royal Dragoon Guards in the Royal Armoured Regiment.

 

 

 

Naturally, we had to visit his grave and reflect on his exploits and those of his Regiment.

 

We understood that in 1943, his regiment became famous for its ‘Funnies’, specialised vehicles under the command of Major General Hobart. On 6th June, 1944, the Regiment landed on Gold Beach; ‘B’ and ‘C’ Squadron landing 5 minutes before H (attack) Hour at 0720 Hrs in amphibious D D Sherman tanks.

 

On the first day ‘A’ Squadron (with the 7th Battalion Green Howards) landed and followed a route through Crepon and liberated Creully. This small town is where the 4th/7th Royal Dragoon Guards Memorial is situated. The Regiment later took part in the bitter fighting at Cristot against elements of the 12th SS Panzer Division Hitlerjugend. It was during the engagement at Cristot that three members of the Regiment, who had been taken prisoner, were shot dead by their captors; one was wounded, and another tortured.

 

We have not yet examined his records at Kew to amplify the circumstances surrounding his brave but untimely end but intend doing so.

 

 

 

 

 

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